Alice Springs & Ayers Rock to South Australia

<body background="bkgrd2.jpg" bgcolor="#FFFF00"> <h2><font color="#FF0000" face="Arial">A Trip to Beyound: A diary of John Cottingham's 1999 travels across Australia. Alice Springs and Ayers Rock</font><font face="Arial"> </font></h2> <h2><font color="#FF0000" face="Arial">Alice Springs and Ayers Rock</font><font face="Arial"> </font></h2> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>Alice Springs and Ayers Rock are hundreds of kilometers apart, taking about half a day to go from one to another, but many times, mentioning one brings to mind the other. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>We stayed at the Heavitree Gap Caravan park which was across the Ross River and on the opposite side of the mountain from the town. The dry river bed is used as a shortcut to town for some of the aborigines who also can be seen at campfires in the early morning. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>West of Alice Springs is the West McDonald range, a range of mountains that snake their way west. Near the top is a different band of rocks that some may say that resemble the scales on a serpent's back. Tomorrow we will travel to Standley Chasm and Hermannsburg, which is a missionary camp and the environ of the famous aborigine water colorist, Namatjira. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>We first went downtown to see what Alice Springs looked like. The town center is like a large tree shaded mall with wide tiled footpaths between the stores. All of the famous business names of Australia are there, Qantas, BiLo Grocery, ANZ Bank and numerous shops and galleries for native art and trinkets. Everything is here for the international and for that matter national tourist. American fast food giants, Hungry Jacks, McDonald's, Kentucky Fried Chicken and Coca Cola are all there. There are even some high rise buildings and hotels on top of the shops along the concourse. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>The Ross River which is dry most of the time is the scene of the Alice Springs Regatta ... where they carry the boats in a race rather than sail ... on the dry sand. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>In the Winter, the skies are mostly clear everyday and the nicest color of blue you can see anywhere and the stars at night seem so close you could touch them. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>We left early the next morning for exploring in the West McDonald Range. Only a short distance from town, there is a Desert Park where one can see the flora and fauna of the desert in an orderly manner, walking from one environ to another. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>Further along, we arrived at </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/as/as03.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>Standley Chasm</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong>. This is where the mountain has split leaving a rocky chasm between two mountains. We walked over the rocks from one end to the other. The sky was blue and the morning sun was just beginning to enlighten the outcroppings and the </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/as/as02.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>white gum trees</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong> clinging to their walls. Some of the trees had </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/as/as01.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>white blossoms</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong>. Like most places, touristy, it is on aboriginal land and a fee is extracted enabling one to use the footpaths if one follows the precise instructions. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>Liz and Allan walked a lot further and faster than I. I always take time to 'smell the roses'. I caught </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/as/as04.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>their picture</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong> in the chasm.</strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>Further west is Hermannsburg, which is the heart of an aboriginal community. Hermannsburg was founded by Lutheran missionaries. As one approaches their land, NO GROG signs are evident. Alcohol use among aborigines has led to a deterioration of clan values and a sense of family where the elders and parents are respected. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>The missionary grounds are enclosed in a fence and comprise of several stuccoed buildings which housed the </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/as/as05.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>church</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong>, living quarters and </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/as/as06.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>servants quarters</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong> and school. Inside the building that houses the present day Tea Room, one of the original </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/as/as08.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>cooking stoves</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong> is on display. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>One is made aware of the crude manner in which the buildings have been constructed, not to detract from their usefulness or utility. The materials used in the buildings and skill which was used in their construction, led to doors and windows being different dimensions according to how things worked out. The walls were thick allowing it to remain cool inside until the heat finally penetrated them. The </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/as/as07.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>present church</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong> is just outside the compound.</strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>A local aborigine, Namatjira, who was once convicted of supplying liquor to aborigines, was also an artist. He was from the clan in Hermannsburg. His style was water colors. Several of his works are found in most of the galleries in Alice Springs. I bought a couple of prints of his work. Beautiful pottery is also produced by this clan. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>One entering Hermannsburg will perhaps receive a negative opinion from the apparent unkempt environment that the houses, built by the government, present to a visitor passing through to the mission. Aboriginals, are hunters and gathers. When something is found whether in the earth or in a tree, what is not needed for eating or usefulness, is discarded where it was found. Likewise, when living in settlements, things like wrappers and bottles are discarded, were ever they are emptied. Each yard, like the outback, is littered as they have done for thousands of years. Unlike aboriginals found on other continents, the Australian Aboriginals do not plant or raise their plants and meat but find it through foraging. Today modern aboriginals eat what is available at the community store with money provided by the government or mineral rights paid by the white entities using their land. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>Places like Police Stations, government offices and schools are enclosed in a high fence, with some having an additional three strands of barbed wire on the top. White Australians generally have a fear of the black aborigines due to the impressions they have received from observing them in the towns where an endless flow of alcohol is available. White Australians in all walks of life call the aborigines, 'black fellows'. There is a pervasive mistrust between the white and black cultures, and hypocrisy prevails. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>In the evening, Allan and I went to the pub on the resort grounds, where we were staying, and saw a reptile show that featured lizards and snakes. </strong></font></p> <h2><font color="#FF0000" face="Arial"><strong>Ayers Rock</strong></font><font face="Arial"><strong> </strong></font></h2> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>Ayers Rock is a long way south and west of Alice Springs. Ayers Rock is east of another pile of rocks called the Olgas. Ayers Rock resort is a cluster of hotels and businesses that are about 18 km from Ayers Rock. </strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>We went on to Ayers Rock, also visiting the cultural center. Some parts of the rock are considered sacred to the clan whose land it is on so photography is not sanctioned. Stories found in the cultural center also can not be photographed or recorded. I find it hard to believe that they are still waiting for a plan to sell the information. Australia wide in all the parks we visited, we saw white Australians talking about aborigines but very few aborigines involved directly talking about their own culture. The national parks seem to be job and moneymaking schemes for the government and white Australians. </strong></font></p> <p><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/ayersrock/ar04.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>Ayers Rock</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong>, because of it's size is visible for miles. </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/ayersrock/ar02.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>Allan and Liz</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong> had rest on the benches at the base of the climb.</strong></font></p> <p><font face="Arial"><strong>Allan took a go up the Rock and went quite a ways to the chain. I waited down below to record the </strong></font><a href="http://www.homeboys-adventures-in-australia.com/vol3/ayersrock/ar03.jpg" target="left"><font face="Arial"><strong>action</strong></font></a><font face="Arial"><strong>. The rock is steep and at times slick so climbing it can be very treacherous and is not something those with a fear of heights should attempt.</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#FF0000" size="5" face="Arial"><strong>South Australia</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#000000" size="3" face="Arial"><strong>Traveling south from Ayers Rock, the South Australia border isn't far. When you are pulling a caravan, Coober Pedy is about the next stop in the opal fields. Before you get to Coober Pedy, there is a small community called Marla. We stopped for tea there and looked at an amusing billboard encouraging travelers to take another road which goes through Oonadatta. There is a police station at Marla, and knowing there were two opal areas close, decided to go in and talk to the constables about any characters they had met in the area.</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#000000" size="3" face="Arial"><strong>According to the Constable, to go to the opal fields at Mintabie, which is on Aboriginal land, you need to register with the Police at Marla. Another new opal field is the Seven Creeks field which is on a cattle station. One needs permission for the manager to go there. Seven Creeks is northeast of Marla. Within the last 2 years several fortunes have been made there. </strong></font></p> <p><font color="#000000" size="3" face="Arial"><strong>I inquired about the aboriginal settlements in the area. I had heard that the government provides the communities with Toyota Land Cruiser vehicles and wondered if any of them were registered when their registration expired. The Constable said no, generally not. He said that each settlement has an airstrip where mail and freight is delivered and medical evacuations are carried out.</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#FF0000" size="5" face="Arial"><strong>Coober Pedy</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#000000" size="3" face="Arial"><strong>Coober Pedy is an opal mining area, world known for high quality white opal. When you start seeing the white mounds of earth on both sides of the road, you know you are getting close. It is hot in this part of South Australia so most houses are underground.</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#000000" size="3" face="Arial"><strong>We stayed at the Opal Inn which has the mysterious "Chinaman" who buys most of the good opal. It is very modern and within walking distance to the shopping.</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#000000" size="3" face="Arial"><strong>Coober Pedy is joining the rest of Australia by installing their first roundabout in main street. Main street due to construction had a dusty main street. Locals are bewildered on how to navigate through the new roundabout which will probably result in quite a few fender benders.</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#000000" size="3" face="Arial"><strong>I went to the pub in the Opal Inn, in the public part, which was full of miners and aborigines wagering their days wages on the horse races. I was approached by a Russian who was trying to sell enough opal to get back home. He had lots of opal but I am not fond of white opal. Some aborigines looked like professional businessmen and one was approached by a aboriginal girl off the street trying to make a dollar for the night. I have seen girls like that, before...at Timber Creek.</strong></font></p> <p><font color="#000000" size="3" face="Arial"><strong>I visited a nice lady in one of the opal stores.</strong></font></p> <p> </p> </p> </body>