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Northern Territory
Wildlife Park, Berry Creek, NT
We visited the Northern
Territory Wildlife Park. Berry Creek is south of Darwin. They
have an assortment of reptiles, birds and mammals found in
the Northern Territory. The park is quite large divided like
a zoo with a tram circling the park on the road to take those
who would prefer to ride to the next exhibit instead of
walking.. The park is situated along side Berry Nature Park
with a stream separating them.
The exhibit that caught our
attention was the show put on by the park rangers at the
raptor exhibit. Raptors are birds of prey that catch their
prey with their feet. The Wedgetail Eagle, the Sea Eagle, and
the Barking Owl are the three examples trained by the
rangers.
The Barking Owl is a cute little Owl, with speckles on
its breast and whiskers. The owl 'whoof whoofs'. It has
whiskers which serve to help it locate its food once it has
caught it. The animals in these 'show and tell'
demonstrations had tethers on their legs so that the handler
could keep them perched on their arm when necessary ... like
falconry.
Raptors have extremely good vision, allowing it
to zoom in on specific targets with much better resolution
and pinpoint accuracy than humans.
Even with the particular raptor
flying, it was watching the handler. The Wedgetail Eagle for example can be observed drifting in
the air currents high above ground. When the handler put his
hand in his food pouch and pitched a piece in the air, the
Wedgetail Eagle swooped down and caught it in mid-air with
its feet. Other eagles can try to cause it to drop the food
so that they can catch it so the Wedgetail eats in flight
before this might happen.
The Sea Eagle on the otherhand swoops down and
catches its prey with the strong talons on its feet and
carries the prey to a safe place to eat. Whether the prey is
a large barramundi, or a kangaroo or feral pig baby, makes no
difference because of the strength of the talons and the
heavier leg structure.
The park ranger related a story
about a couple of folks who were fishing nearby. They heard a
pig squealing. They looked up and the piglet was flying....
On the talons of an Sea Eagle. Yes Alice, pigs can fly... in
the Northern Territory. ... :)
The Northern Territory Wildlife
Park also has other exhibits one of which, the aquarium, is
exceptional. Walking through the aquarium with the special
lighting, which accentuates the colors in the fish gives you
a special presence. fish1, fish2, fish3.
Adelaide River NT
We continued on South after the
Northern Territory Wildlife Park to Adelaide River and spent
the night at the show grounds there. Showgrounds in the
outback communities comprise of a block of land that may have
a horse racing track and rodeo grounds on the same oval with
permanent buildings for exhibits and perhaps a caravan park.
Adelaide River was no exception. A permanent fixture of the
showgrounds is a bistro that serves food and grog on the
weekends. I partook of the grog ... :)
In the middle of the grounds
was a huge termite mound.
Katherine,
The Second Time
Since we are headed to Broome
on the far northwestern coast of Western Australia, we will
return to Katherine and go west from there. We stopped off in
Katherine to have some film developed and to briefly log on
the Internet to catch email and also shop. In Australia,
there are three major chains of grocery stores and Katherine
has a Woolworth grocery store.
In the outback, a major grocery
every 1,000 miles is a treat. While some outback communities
have some meat and milk, vegetables are not as plentiful.
Exotic things in my tucker box (food storage) like Heinz
Ketchup and Filipino noodles are impossible to find... :)
Timber Creek NT, on
the Victoria River
In the afternoon of July 9 we
arrived at Timber Creek. We stopped at the second Caravan
Park on the right. It was in the heat of the afternoon and
the sun was searing. The first caravan park, viewed from the
road was out in the open and no shade in sight. The second
had plenty of shade and a hotel and pub on the premises.
There were a mob of aborigines in the front, some sleeping
off the grog on the concrete benches of the picnic tables.
This is where I booked us.
Later in the evening, Allan and
I were going to go to the bar and see if we could meet some
characters. I left earlier and got separated from Allan. I
went to the Public Bar and I found out later Allan had been
at the one upstairs.
I met three aboriginals, in the
pub, from a nearby settlement, part of the mob we had seen
out front when we arrived. These aboriginals were from a
nearby clan and come to the pub to coerce tourists into
buying them beer and cigarettes in return for relating what
it is like to be an aboriginal.
From other sources along the
way I had gathered the information that most aboriginals are
on some kind of subsidy from the government or mineral
royalties. Some Aboriginal communities like that one in Pine
Creek, prohibit the sale of alcohol to them the day their
subsidy check arrives hoping that they will buy food to last
until next payday. Some spend the money on grog, others have
a one-day feast with little or nothing left until the next
payday.
In the pub, I met one
aboriginal woman and her name was Rita. She was short in
stature but seemed to be of normal proportions. She was
talkative for a price, beer and cigarettes. Communicating
with most remote aborigines who have come in contact with
Australians is like communicating with other natives through
out the world. It is done in a Pidgin English...so
understanding may not always translate.
The government might provide a
Toyota Land Cruiser, some utes (pickups) and some basic
housing. Basic housing might be a block of two bedroom units.
Since the clans are remote on their land, similar to American
Indian reservations, other wanderers might show up in a
community, overloading the facilities built to contemporary
Australian standards. Rita said that there were too many
people in her house. The excess of humanity overloads even
the finest engineering...so the toilets quit working and
those few who do try to practice a primitive level of hygiene
are prevented from doing so. The doors fall off their hinges
also. The sweat and odor of ones body doesn't seem to be
regarded.
Since, Allan and I planned to
fish in the river, Rita wanted me to catch her a catfish. I
did, but it was only 6 inches long and I released it.
In the Timber Creek caravan
park, our spot was all the way to the back, since others had
filled the park ahead of us. Across the fence was a herd of
goats, one with a bell around its neck.
One of the permanent residents
has some boats which they rent. A couple of blokes returned
their boat from a fishing trip. One caught a 59-centimeter
barramundi and the other a 61-inch. Later others returned
with similar fish stories. Allan and I got enthused about
doing the same. We have tried so hard to catch some fish of
substance we plan to try our hand again soon ... after we
gather a little more information.
Saturday, Allan, Liz and I went
to the Victoria River which passes in back of Timber Creek to
see if we could catch anything. In a 3-hour time, Allan
caught one little fish with spots on its sides, like the ones
we saw swimming in the creek. The river empties into the
Indian Ocean so it is tidal at this point. Allan put the fish
on a Taylor rig of three hooks and cast it out, having no
luck with it.
Saturday evening, the 9th of
July, Liz cooked all of the fresh vegetables we had since
tomorrow, we move on to Kununurra, which is the first town
inside the Western Australia border.
On the way to Kununurra, we
pass by two cattle stations that my host Noel Hale worked at
a few years ago. He used to make regular trips from Tewantin
to the stations which are west of Timber Creek. He was very
aware of the 'night life' at the Timber Creek pub as he had
refreshed himself there many times.
On our way back, perhaps Allan
and I can go on a fishing trip with the bloke who has the
boat hire here at Timber Creek.
Kununurra
Central Australia is 1/2 hour
earlier in time from the east coast so when it is 4 am on the
Gold Coast, it is 3:30 am in Central Australia. All of our
travels thus far in Northern Territory were 1/2 hour earlier
than we were used to.
Kununurra, on the other hand,
is one of the eastern most towns in the northern part of
Western Australia. Kununurra is an aboriginal name meaning
"Meeting of Big Waters". Kununurra is where the
eastern part of the Kimberley Mountains start to be seen. The
protrusions are layered red rock and near the tops, there
seem to be a layer where the ocean level used to be several
hundred feet above the plain. The plains we had seen had tall
grass with occasional Boab (Bottle) trees interspersed with
the others.
The land we had seen in the
Northern Territory was mainly suitable for sheep or cattle
grazing. As we could see after a short cursory tour around
the Kununurra environs was an oasis with sugar cane, row crops and dairy cattle. The Ord River which
is close must be the difference. Fresh water in an abundant
supply, in many cases, is all that is necessary to produce
the sweetest fruit, melons, I've tasted in many years.
The drive from Timber Creek to
Kununurra was only about a 1/2 day drive and since we were
gaining 1-1/2 hours because of the time change, we arrived
shortly after we departed. There are about 3 caravan parks in
Kununurra. Even though we arrived early in the day on Sunday,
the first one closest to town was full and they referred us
to the one in Hidden Valley.
There are plenty of things to
see and do here. Lake Argyle to the southeast is huge. The famous
Australian colored diamonds come from the local Argyle
Diamond Mine. The Kimberley Dairy Farm is open. The Ord River
low water crossing is beautiful and an opportunity to wet
your feet and legs on a hot afternoon without the fear of
crocodiles. There are two fruit farms that have sheds open to
sample their honey sweet fruits including chocolate covered
bananas and cantaloupe.
One thing that makes finding
fresh fruits and vegetables so nice is that Western Australia
has a strict quarantine. Travelers into Western Australia
have to dump their honey and fresh-uncooked vegetables at the
border checkpoint.
We visited the Kimberley Dairy,
which has cows that are bred to withstand tropical conditions
and to be able to forage well for their food. The Kimberley
Dairy milking area can handle 16 cows at a time and is piped
to the processing room. The dairy provides milk for the
Kununurra area both of the "Full Cream" variety and
also flavoured milks.
At Kununurra Melon Farm, which
is one of the two fruit distribution point we visited, we had
an opportunity to see and taste some of the sweetest
watermelon and rockmelon I have ever tasted. At Barra Barra
Bananas, which is another melon farm, we saw some red finches. These are the only ones I have found
in all my travels. Chocolate covered bananas and cantaloupe
are nice and only cost about $1 each.
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